West Philadelphia | University City

Feline Health & Behavior FAQs

The following information is intended as a guide to help you and your new pet adjust to life together. It answers some frequently asked questions but is not intended as a substitute for medical advice from a veterinarian.

Why is my new kitty hiding under the bed?

Do I need to train my cat to use the litterbox?

What about scratching posts?

What kind of food do you recommend for my new friend?

I already have a cat. How do I introduce a new one?

What if my cat is eliminating outside of the litterbox?

What if my cat is scratching furniture?

What if my cat/kitten is scratching/biting me during playtime?

What kind of veterinary care should I provide my cat/kitten?

What about flea collars and shampoos?

Why is my new kitty hiding under the bed?
Don’t take it personally! Some cats take a while to adjust to new people/places, and some are especially shy. It may take weeks or even months for kitty to warm up to her new home, so be patient. You may want to keep kitty in her own room for a few days so she can adjust to her new digs in a safe and comfortable spot.

Do I need to train my cat to use the litterbox?
Cats instinctively use litterboxes, but sometimes they need a little introduction--particularly kittens. Put the litterbox in a quiet, low-traffic area (closet, corner of the room, etc.) and clean it often. Show your new friend the nice, comfy litterbox you've set up for her, and she'll thank you by using it! As a general rule, you should have at least one litterbox per cat. Covered litterboxes can help contain any unpleasant smells, but make sure you clean it often or your cat may protest! The type of litter you choose is really up to you. Some people prefer clumping litter, which lasts longer and makes scooping a lot easier.

What about scratching posts?
Scratching posts are a must, because kitties need to scratch something to sharpen their claws and remove the outer layers of the claw. If you don't give them a designated spot to scratch, they may think your couch looks better! Most of the kitties we know like sisal rope and cardboard scratchers better than carpet. The kind you buy at the store can be expensive, but you can easily make a post with some cheap wood posts or boards covered in sisal rope. A sheet of corrugated cardboard works well, too. If kitty doesn't seem interested, rub the new scratching post with catnip to encourage her.

What kind of food do you recommend for my new friend?
Feeding your cat cheap fare is like eating fast food everyday--it fills you up but doesn't provide much nutrition. High-quality cat food will keep your kitty healthier and help her live a longer, happier life. We recommend Wellness, Nature's Variety, Merrick, Nutro Natural Choice, Royal Canin, Science Diet, and comparable brands. They're more expensive than the stuff you find at the grocery store, but because they have fewer fillers and are more nutritious, your cat won't need to eat as much. That means you won't need to buy food as often and will end up spending about the same amount of money. You’ll probably save money on vet bills later down the road too, since better food means better overall health. Kittens should eat kitten food until their growth slows, as this food is higher in calories.

I already have a cat. How do I introduce a new one?
This depends on the age of the cats and their temperaments, but we can give you some basic tips. Generally, you should keep the new cat separate for a day or two. Give the new cat food, water, litter, and a few toys and let her hang out in a separate room for a while. This gives her a "safe place" as she becomes familiar with her new surroundings. If you'd like, you can feed the kitties on opposite sides of the door and switch their beds/toys to get them used to the scent and idea of another cat. But introductions usually aren't pretty, no matter what precautions you take! Don't be surprised if the cats don't get along right away. Open the door and there will probably be some hissing and swatting. This is completely normal and may even continue for a few months after the first introduction. If things get too heated, (carefully) separate them again using a towel to protect yourself from bites and scratches, and try again later.

What if my cat is eliminating outside of the litterbox?
Don’t scold kitty! She won’t understand what she did wrong. Shoving your cat’s nose in a puddle of pee won’t “prove” anything—it will just upset her and make her more likely to do it again. First you should ensure that your cat is healthy. Males are especially prone to urinary crystals, which can cause them to “block”—meaning that their urinary tract is literally blocked. If your cat is showing obvious signs of pain while urinating (yowling or straining), is unable to urinate, or has blood in his/her urine, this could be a life-threatening emergency and you should seek medical treatment immediately.

Once you have ruled out medical causes, check the litterbox. Is it in a quiet, private location? Is it clean? If you have more than one cat, do you have enough litterboxes? Next, consider any recent lifestyle changes. Is the cat new to your home? Did you move recently? Did you introduce a new animal? Are you spending more time away from home? Did you switch the brand of litter or the location of the box? Did you move the furniture?

Also know that once a cat has peed in a particular location, s/he will go back to it again and again unless you remove the scent. City Kitties recommends products such as Anti-Ickypoo and Nature’s Miracle to remove the smell. Simply cleaning the spot with household cleaners won’t do the trick—your cat’s nose is more sensitive than your own, and s/he will still be able to smell it and will continue using the same spot.

What if my cat is scratching furniture?
Again, do not directly punish your cat—she won’t understand or respond. Try placing the scratching posts in front of the object she is scratching, or cover the object with tinfoil or double-sided tape to discourage her. You can also try squirting her with water, clapping your hands, or shaking an empty soda can full of coins when you see her scratching. Alternately, you can pick her up and place her on the scratching post, then praise her when she uses it. Some people also have luck with citrus sprays and other scents which cats may find unpleasant—your local pet store will have these. If kitty insists on scratching the furniture, clip her nails more frequently and/or get SoftPaws (www.softpaws.com).

What if my cat/kitten is scratching/biting me during playtime?
This is normal play behavior for kittens, but it sure is annoying if you’re the target. Never encourage scratching/biting behavior by using your hands during playtime—this is sending kitty the message that your hands are fun toys! Say “OW!” to let them know you didn’t like that one bit, then discontinue playtime by leaving the room or simply ignoring kitty. Some people also spray the cat with water to discourage this behavior. You can keep playtime interesting by introducing new toys, such as foil balls, paper bags to explore, laser pointers to chase, and so on.

What kind of veterinary care should I provide my cat/kitten?
City Kitties recommends at least one exam per year for a healthy adult cat. Our cats are all tested for FIV/FeLV, vaccinated, and dewormed before they are adopted out, but it is always wise to take your new cat to the vet for an exam and to be re-tested for FIV/FeLV, as those diseases can take months to show up in a test after a cat has been exposed. Besides, it’s a good idea to be familiar with a local vet in case you have questions or an emergency situation! If kitty ever stops eating, urinating, or defecating, this could be a sign of a serious medical problem and you should call your vet immediately.

Depending on the age at the time of adoption, kittens will need one or more rounds of booster shots, and may need to be vaccinated for rabies if they were too young at the time of their first exam. If you’re not sure when to visit the vet, City Kitties can provide you with vet records, or with the number of the local vet where your new kitty was examined so you can obtain their records.

What about flea collars and shampoos?
OTC flea shampoos and collars are known to cause seizures in cats—please don’t use them! City Kitties recommends monthly application of Revolution, Frontline, or similar products to prevent fleas, ear mites, and worms. You can obtain these from your vet.

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